The loveliest aspect of the crape myrtle plant, for a lot of part, is its gorgeous flowers. Given, the development habit of many of the crape myrtles is particularly attractive, and the advancement of roots and nebari produce a very interesting display as well. What a shame, then, that we have not had the ability to make the fluorescence’s, or flower masses, work for the creation of an even much better bonsai - up until recently. The crape myrtle's fluorescence’s are way out of scale, for the most part, specifically from the larger varieties of crape myrtles. However, at our yearly seminar on crape myrtles, which was held in 2010, we talked about an option to make flowers work as an effective element of our crape myrtle bonsai.
How can this be? Do not we know that flowers can't be dwarfed, at least to any serious degree? And if we can't overshadow flowers, how can we make them in scale? Is there a technique? Well, it's not precisely a trick, however it is a secret of sorts. At least it's not an intentional secret, but it hasn't been spoken about much; in fact, it's even tough to find out much if you were to look for it in "Google" for an answer. Check out this www.ilikelogcabins.com for further details about log cabins.
The secret lies in that flowers don't grow separately but rather in groups which together are called a "florescence". A florescence consists of lots of flowers outgrowing the exact same stalk and secondary stalks, as it were. Significantly, the florescence consists of a various kind of plant material with various growth attributes than the flowers themselves. Thus the flowers do not need to be overshadowed (which won't occur anyway) to lower the scale and size of the general mass of the flower mass, the florescence. If we might just overshadow and shorten the stalks on which the flowers grow, we could make the florescence smaller without doing anything else. But how?
Collectively, they are called "development retardants", PGRs, or "development regulatory authorities". The main stem that is the accessory of the florescence to the rest of the plant is called simply the stem. The secondary stem, which attaches to the main stem, is called a peduncle, and the tiniest part of the florescence, which themselves carry the flowers, are called pedicels.
Much work has actually been done to create different growth patterns, specifically foring example items which can cause a more compact type of growth. That is something that is in great demand in decorative plants which have, as their function, their looks, instead of a certain function of the plant. Even yards have actually had solutions prepared to keep them from needing to be trimmed as often. There is even a solution developed specifically for turfs, called "Cutless", for apparent reasons.
Other solutions, which have different effects on different plants, however which are all created primarily making the ornamental plant and/or its flowers more attractive, consist of those with names like: A-rest, B-nine, Cycocel, Trimtect, ethephon and paclobutrazol, or bonzi (not recommended, for when utilized in a concentration a little expensive, it can cut off any more growth practically permanently), and bud ignitor, which does numerous phase-specific bud boosters for various aspects of the blooming cycle. And there's much to discover.
Ethephon, as another example, which has a various mode of action than hindering gibberelic acid (GA). GA restraint is one of the most used approaches of lowering development. For more information, simply Google "Plant Growth Retardants" and you will discover everything you searching for to understand - and much more.
The crape myrtles, being vigorous growers, for the most part, will usually searching for more effective PGRs. The more flexible sprays are most likely the best to experiment with. We've found Cycocel, B-nine and Ethephon amongst the very best - all foliar sprays - for our personal purposes. Much experimentation is still worth doing. For each size of development florescence, and its speed of development also, there might be another PGR that is best for it.
Another thing that has to be born in mind is that a number of these are developed only to be applied in commercial amounts and thus only available in huge (and costly) amounts. If so, you will wish to share your acquisition with others making it budget-friendly. However, there are some good ones for our purposes which can be bought in smaller sized quantities. Bud Ignitor is one such PGR; Bud Blood is another that is similar. These last two mentioned are typically utilized in the marijuana growing trade, but I am not suggesting this. The truth is, there is a terrific growth of understanding amongst those growers, perhaps for evident factors, and as a result their prices are coming way down as they become more popular. They are still costly, however maybe economical, and available in smaller amounts - and for our purposes and amounts used for bonsai, they will last a long time.
There's another method we can decrease the size of the florescence, likewise: by lowering the number of flowers in the florescence. Just cut down the staying flowers on the remaining stem to just the bottom few, perhaps even just one, while they are in the fledgling phase, and incredibly the staying flowers will fill the gaps to develop a complete mass of flowers that look in addition to if they were the complete florescence from the start.
With these techniques, you can dwarf - and make into little scale - even those crape myrtles with the largest florescences, like Natchez, Muskogee, Red Rocket, Dynamite, and Arapaho. Of course, the very same outcomes will accompany the smaller growing varieties also.